How this compressor works

Most online compressors upload your photos to a server, process them there and send them back. This one does not. Your browser decodes each image and re-encodes it with the settings you choose, on your own computer. You can even disconnect from the internet after the page loads and it keeps working.

Because the image is re-encoded, metadata such as camera details and GPS location is not carried over into the new file. That is usually what you want for images you publish or email.

Which settings to choose

A few defaults cover most jobs:

  • Website and blog images: WebP or JPG at 75–80% quality, longest side 1600–2048 px.
  • Email attachments: JPG at 75%, longest side 1600 px keeps photos sharp on screens at a fraction of the size.
  • Marketplace listings: JPG at 85%, longest side 2000–2560 px so zoom still looks good.
  • Logos, screenshots and graphics with transparency: PNG or WebP, never JPG (JPG has no transparency).

Limits of a browser tool

Browsers are good at a handful of images at a time. For hundreds or thousands of files, whole folders with subfolders, HEIC and AVIF output, an exact file-size target or consistent file names, a desktop app is faster and more reliable. Operimage is a free Mac app built for exactly that, and it also processes everything on your Mac.

FAQ

Are my images uploaded anywhere?

No. The page uses your browser's built-in image engine to decode and re-encode files on your device. Nothing is sent to a server.

Is there a file or size limit?

There is no limit set by this tool. Very large images or long batches depend on your device's memory and browser.

Can it compress HEIC photos from an iPhone?

Only if your browser can open HEIC files, which currently means Safari on recent macOS and iOS versions. Other browsers cannot read HEIC, so convert those photos to JPG first.

Does compressing remove EXIF and GPS data?

Yes. The new file is created from the pixels only, so camera details and location are not included.

What is the best quality setting?

Start at 80%. Most photos look the same as the original at 75–85% and are much smaller; go to 90% for images people will zoom into.